Gianyar is one of eight regencies in Bali, with a population of approximately 500,000 people, it is the second most populous regency on the island after Badung (home to Kuta, Seminyak and other cities). The sprawling regency is a patchwork of rice paddies and rainforests framed by dramatic black sand beaches on the southeast coast. To this day, Gianyar retains the feeling of “real” Bali, away from the tourist bustle of the southern regions. A notable exception to this rule is Ubud, a vibrant arts and culture hub located in the center of Gianyar.
Gianyar attracts travelers looking to explore Bali beyond the tourist route and get closer to the island's rich cultural heritage. Much of Gianyar has retained its rural roots and is dotted with local Balinese villages, rice fields and temples. The area also has several busy transport hubs, most notably the cities of Gianyar and Ubud. Gianyar's coastline is cut through by a major highway linking bustling South Bali to Padangbai, Candidasa and Amed in eastern Bali. Gianyar's beaches are covered with volcanic black sand and are virtually unvisited except by local fishermen and surfers.
Gianyar is a large area (the regency covers almost 400 square kilometers) and offers a variety of scenery and atmosphere depending on where you stay. For easier access to tourist sites, it's best to stay in or around the center of Ubud, where you'll be surrounded by endless restaurants, shops, galleries, yoga studios and spas. This means ease of access, but due to the area's immense popularity, the atmosphere can become hectic and too touristy for some travelers' tastes.
As soon as you leave the center of Ubud, you will feel life slow down. This is what people mean when they talk about discovering the “real” Bali. Gianyar offers stunning natural scenery with villas, hotels and resorts surrounded by rice fields, rainforests and local village life. Staying in these rural areas means the distances will be longer and you'll need a car to get around - a small price to pay for staying in the heart of Bali.
Heading from the rice fields towards the coast, you'll be greeted by the stunning black sand beaches of south-east Bali. Saba, Keramas and other beaches in the area tend to be quiet and unassuming, and you'll often only be sharing the beach with a handful of locals and avid surfers. The coastline is home to some of the most stunning and luxurious secluded beach villas on the island.
